During London Collections: Men, I also took a look at Martine Rose’s presentation at The Hospital Club. After a bit a of wait to get in and awkwardly positioning ourselves in a white room the presentation began.
Inspiration was taken from Jamaica’s Rasta community and their lifestyle of attitude to reflect status rather than wealth. Elements of the dress by Emperor of Ethiopia, Haile Selassie I had been woven into the collection also through colour and fabric. However my favourite parts of the collection was the styling. Wet-look trousers with bomber jackets and hoodies make this collection current and urban. The layered outerwear of metallic shirts, knitted jumpers and thick quilted jackets with bright coloured linings are the boldest styled looks in my opinion.
But the pub towelling quilted jackets were my favourite just because of its charm and humour….plus the model looked exactly like Ian Brown and was drawing me in to think’…it couldn’t be could it?’. Although the press release didn’t mention much on the 70s or 90s I saw prominent features of this collection drawing me back to flared, oversized trousers of the 70s and Oasis like figures from the early 90s music area.
Sadly the room itself which had carefully position seats and sofas for the models to be displayed on didn’t really work for me. The ‘clean, blank space’ they were trying to achieve as a background to present ended up being crammed with guests with assistants crawling on the floor to move them out of the way. The lighting went down half way through and the music just stopped but the models kept going. Whether this was meant to happen and it was just a bit too conceptual for me to understand I don’t know! A disappointing end to the presentation had to be when instead of the models leaving to go back-stage to hint it was the end, one of them was just left there and a voice from the back shouting to us that ‘the presentation is over, please leave so we can get the next lot in!’. As we did so, trying to dodge the poor guy left on the rotating podium, there was a huge struggle to get out and let the rest of the crowd in.
I loved the collection itself and really pleased I was one of the guests who were able to attend!